• Getting Started

• Decorate w/ Borders

• Removing Wallpaper

• Hang Wallpaper

• Preparing Walls

• Choosing Adhesive

• Tools of the Trade

• Pasting Machines

• How to Hang Murals

• Common Problems

• Glossary

PLANNING YOUR WALLPAPER LAYOUT
You've made an investment in your new wallcovering and you deserve a professional finish! Preplanning will save you time and help eliminate mistakes. Before preplanning your layout, keep in mind, your wallpaper will EXPAND anywhere from 1/4" to 1/2" when wet or pasted. Test a piece and allow for this when measuring.

How to pre-plan - As a general rule, start in the most visible corner planning to meet in the least visible corner in your room and measure the width of your paper around the room in both directions meeting in your inconspicuous corner. Try to avoid small strips (2" or smaller) in corners or around windows, doors, cabinets, etc. If you are only doing one wall (especially full length 8' pieces like in a bedroom), start somewhere in the middle, work your way to each corner, marking off off where your pieces will fall as you go. Try to avoid any small strips in the corners.

When pre-planning - Be sure to take into account if you have window sills that you will be wrapping. Plan your layout so there will be sufficient paper to wrap inside your sills without having to strip in a piece.

PREPARING and PRIMING WALLS

A LITTLE WALL PREPARATION GOES A LONG WAY TO INSURE
EASE OF INSTALLATION AND THE LONG LASTING BEAUTY
OF YOUR NEW WALLCOVERINGS.

Priming - Its always a good idea to prime your walls with a PRIMER RECOMMENDED ESPECIALLY FOR PREPARING WALLS FOR WALLPAPER. This will promote adhesion, plus when you want to remove your wallpaper, the job will be easier.

Hanging over Painted Walls - If hanging over painted walls, priming is a must! In many cases, especially in new homes where the paint has been applied with sprayers, the paint will let loose if it is not primed first. Many kitchens and baths have been painted with glossy enamel paints. Treat these with a wallpaper primer before installing your new paper.

Marking Walls - Use chalk or a pencil to mark your wall; never use ink as it may bleed through your paper and stain.

HANGING OVER OLD WALLPAPER OR PANELING

Priming - If hanging over old wallpaper, priming is a must. Use a primer that seals the paper to a hard, impermeable finish. Test your old paper first by wetting the surface in a small test area. If it bubbles easily, then you would be better off to remove it.

Hiding Old Wallpaper Seams - To hide old wallpaper seams so that they won’t show under your new paper, after the wallpaper primer dries, lightly skim the old wallpaper seams with joint compound. Let the compound dry, sand lightly, and coat the skimmed areas with your wallpaper primer.

Hanging wallpaper over paneling - There are a number of liner papers on the market that address this task. Almost any wallpaper center or paint store handles liners, generally known as Wall Felt. Liners should always be pasted with a heavy duty vinyl to vinyl adhesive or a "clay-based" adhesive to insure proper adhesion. Generally, the liner must dry 24 to 48 hours before hanging over it with your wallcovering. Before hanging your liner, be sure to check the paneling for loose areas and secure these areas. Most liners recommend priming before hanging your wallcovering. After you have primed the liner, you may want to float out joints and any un level areas with sheet rock mud.

Liners can be installed horizontally or vertically (sometimes called railroading). Hanging the liner vertically is oftentimes faster. Be sure to butt the seams, don’t overlap, then skim the join with sheet rock mud.

Another alternative is a number of new wallcoverings that are designed to especially address hanging over paneling. Check with your local decorating center for information on these products.

LEVEL LINES

Using a plumb bob, chalk line - Remember always use a plumb line (a vertical level line) out of a corner or on your first piece. Make a true vertical line with plumb line and chalk a paper’s width away from your intended starting point. A plumb line, chalk and plumb bob is included in every WalWiz Wallpapering Tool Kit. Attach the line to the plumb bob. Fasten the string with a pin or small nail 2" from the ceiling and rub the string with the colored chalk. Let the bob hang above the floor. When the plumb bob stops swinging, hold it firmly against the wall and snap the line leaving a chalk mark. Keep the plumb line and chalk handy, because you’ll want to mark a true vertical around every corner or starting a new wall.

Using a level - Make a true vertical line with a level a paper’s width away from your intended starting point. Hold the level vertical until the bubble is centered (within in two marks) and trace along the level with a pencil. Line up the level with your previously drawn line and repeat this process until you have reached at least 2" from the floor.

Dealing with Out-of-Plumb Walls - Walls are never perfect. Waves in sheet rock oftentimes will cause your patterns to pull off the match. To camouflage this, match the pattern at eye level (rather than starting at the top) and work up to the top, then down to the bottom of the wall.

My ceiling is out of plumb causing my pattern to run off at the ceiling line. What Can I do? - Choosing a mini-print or plain paper is the easiest solution for this problem. If you already have your paper, you may want to consider hanging trim to a level line, caulking the gap at the ceiling.

An alternate solution is not easy, but can be accomplished with a good eye and artful skill, depending on your pattern and where the paper is being installed, i.e., a solid wall, over a kitchen cabinet, etc. The technique to camouflage this type of problem often requires hanging the strip off level, but careful placement makes it look to they eye like it is level.

A good example of this is often used when hanging plaids. This technique works best when hanging smaller pieces but a more skilled craftsman will use this on full length pieces too. Place the paper so that it looks level to the eye with the ceiling, cabinet, etc. allowing it to overlap the previously installed piece. Pay attention to how the overlapped paper lines up with the pattern. You may have to split the difference and adjust the paper somewhat. The idea is that you can cheat the match enough to visually fool the eye. Once the paper is in place, double cut the overlap.

Borders can provide an extremely sophisticated and elegant look to your home. They have the unique ability to give your room that personal touch. The actual process of applying the borders has never been easier, as almost all borders sold today are pre pasted and can be applied on painted walls or directly over coordinated wallpapers for a real Designer look. Here are the steps to follow for a beautifully bordered room.

Step 1: Planning

The first consideration is where the border will be applied. Will you use it along the ceiling, as a chair rail or to frame your doors and windows for an architectural effect? A rough sketch can help you visualize where a border would look best. Once you have determined where the border will be used its time to gather your paint, carpet, wallpaper and fabric samples to take your local dealer to select the perfect border.

Step 2: How many spools of a border will I need?
This next step is a simple one; take the sketch you made and place the measurements of your room accordingly. Most of the borders come packaged in 5 yard spools (15 feet) this is to accommodate the average wall length without a seam. To make your job go quicker and look more professional I suggest that you order a spool for each wall. If you are planning to install a border around the windows and doors, allow yourself at least 2 feet extra for each door and 4 feet extra for each window to allow for mitering the corners. It is always best to over estimate your requirements, any extra material can be used to decorate notebooks, lampshades, waste baskets, storage bins, dresser drawers, headboards, backs of book shelves, picture frames, hat boxes, toy boxes, did I mention everything?

Step 3: What tools will I need?

You will need just a few tools to do the job, some you may already have and those you don’t have, you may acquire from your wallpaper retailer. Here is a list of what you will need.

1. An all-in-one step border prep such as PREPZ™ from Zinsser or Border-Ease® from Roman Decorating Products. These products make border hanging quick and easy by eliminating the need for sizing, special adhesives and messy water trays. Specifically formulated to work over both painted walls and vinyl wallpaper, PREPZ strengthens the paste on pre-pasted borders to enhance adhesive performance, preventing curling edges, corners and seams. It also provides extra "slip" so there's more time to position and match patterns. PREPZ will not stain paint or wallpaper, like other adhesives can, and it makes removal easier at redecorating time. The convenient, patented sponge applicator allows you to simply roll PREPZ on the back of pre-pasted borders and hang. Plus, clean up is a snap with a sponge and water. In the event your border is un pasted, use will need to use a vinyl-over-vinyl adhesive.

2. Tape measure, level or chalk line: Use a tape measure to determine length of border needed. If hanging the border mid wall, mark the height and use a level or chalk line to ensure horizontal placement and positioning is correct.

3. Scissors, trimming knife, and a metal straight edge or a wide putty knife: The scissors are used for cutting borders to approximate length. After the border is in place use a trim knife with snap-off blades and the straight edge as a guide to make mitered corners and to trim excess at the corners. Try: ComfortGrip®Décor Shears and OLFA® Guaranteed Cutters. Use to cut borders and trim edges during application, the super sharp blades leave neat clean trims.

4. Sponge and pails: The sponge is used to smooth out the border and remove excess paste. Two pails are needed; one for paste (if required) and one for clean water for rinsing the sponge. Be sure to change this water frequently.

5. Pasting / Work table: Make sure you set up a large area for cutting, pasting and folding your wallpaper and borders - a large kitchen table or a long work table with a plastic cover will work.

Step 4: Where to start?

Now to start the finishing touch, after the walls are wallpapered or painted and properly prepared, you want to start the border in an inconspicuous spot. If installing your border as a chair rail start at one side of a door or window frame and end at the other side. If installing at the ceiling start at a corner over a doorway as you enter the room, or in the darkest corner so that any design mismatch is less obvious.

Step 5: Let's begin!

Measure the first wall as determined by step 4, then measure and cut the border allowing 2 inches extra to allow for 1-inch overlap at each corner. Remember measure twice and cut once! Begin applying paste or activator and Book the border as you apply the adhesive. Booking means gently folding the border like an accordion, paste-to-paste. Be careful to not crease the border, as the creases will show. Once you have applied the adhesive, let the booked border sit for a few minutes,this allows the paper to relax making it easier to hang. Start hanging the strip allowing about a 2-inch overlap on the adjoining wall (see illustration below). Take a damp sponge and begin smoothing out any air bubbles or lumps as you go along. It’s best if you can have someone holding the border that is to be applied as you place the border in position.

Step 6: Dealing with corners
Your house is constantly shifting and vibrating. Because of this, it is recommended that you run your next strip directly into the corner overlapping the prior strip by 1 to 2 inches using vinyl-to-vinyl adhesive or quality white glue. Outside corners can simply be wrapped.

Step 7: Dealing with Seams

Planning ahead will help minimize seams but if you find that it cannot be avoided, the best method to handle seams is to overlap both ends of the border about 2 inches and carefully match up the pattern. Take a new blade and carefully cut through both pieces of the border where it overlaps using the straight edge as a guide. Then carefully peel away the extra material and you will be left with an almost invisible seam. If applying a wide border a seam roller is recommended to smooth out the seam, but be careful not to press too hard.

Step 8: The chair rail

As you can see in the illustration, chair rails are normally positioned about 1/3 of the distance from the floor to the ceiling. The general rule of thumb is 32 inches to the center of the border. Chair rails help give a cozier feeling to a room with high ceilings and in a child’s room they provide an interesting, eye-level visual stimulus.

Step 9: Borders around windows and doors

When installing a border around a window or door it’s customary to work from left to right much the same as we read. This has a more comfortable feel as the pattern runs up the left side, across the top, and down the right side of the frame. To properly install a border around a frame you simply overlap the two ends (see illustration). You then line up your straight edge with the inside corner and the outside corner formed by the overlapping border (this is normally a 45 degree angle), then using a new blade cut through both layers of the border and gently remove the excess material.

Step 10: The best part!

Sit back and admire your newly decorated room!

1. The key to easy wallpaper removal is to loosen the glue underneath. Do this by perforating the surface with a wallpaper scoring tool like the PaperTiger® Scoring Tool or the Wallwik©Scoring Tool. These patented tools perforate the wallpaper without damaging the wall to allow wallpaper stripper to penetrate through the paper. Just use light pressure and perforate the entire wallpapered surface. The more holes you make, the faster and easier the paper will come off. Scoring is not necessary with uncoated papers.

Method A- Apply Stripper. After scoring the wallcovering, apply a wallpaper stripper such as Zinsser's DIF® or E-Z GEL® by Golden Harvest. Several brands and types are available to liquefy and break down the paste behind the wallcovering. As the stripper wets out and liquefies the adhesive, the stripper breaks down the paste's chemical structure and destroys its adhesive strength. Strippers usually come in concentrate that is mixed with warm water and applied with a sponge, paint roller or garden sprayer. Or try a non-drip gel; it does not dry out and clings to the wall leaving no mess. Apply the stripper starting at the top and working your way down, using a sprayer, sponge or roller like the WALWorks™Adhesive & Stripper Roller. DIF®needs to soak for 15 to 20 minutes, then the wallpaper will be ready to be removed. The backing paper that may remain with peel able or strippable wallcovering is also removed in this manner.

Method B- Apply Wallwik© Wallpaper and Paste Remover - these chemical free sheets are ready to use after scoring. Dip the sheets in a bucket of warm water with Wallwik Power, a solution made with biodegradable detergents and enzymes. Apply to the papered wall. Keep Wallwik sheets wet to allow the moisture to transfer through the scoring wallpaper to the paste. Wait 30 minutes then gently pull wallpaper off the wall. For multiple layers of wallpaper, allow for more saturating time and additional spraying.

2. Scrape Off the Paper. The loosened paper may come off in sheets or large sections with little or no scraping. Where it doesn't, scraping may be required. Use a wallpaper scraper specially designed to glide along the wall at an optimum angle to scrape without gouging the wet wallboard beneath such as Paper Scraper™ Wallpaper Remover and Wall Scraper. Putty knives and razor-edged scrapers, even when used by a professional, can damage the wallboard. Rinse the walls well to remove all excess adhesive before starting to redecorate.

4. Aluminum Foil Test for Moisture: Using duct tape, tape a piece of aluminum foil about one foot square to the wall. Leave the foil attached to the wall for approximately 1 week. Upon removal, if moisture is present on the back of the foil, then the source of moisture is behind the wall. If moisture has condensed on the outside of the foil then the room is in need of ventilation. If the wall surface is sound, begin by washing the surface using warm water and ammonia or detergent-this removes grease and dirt. Washing also helps to dull gloss or semi-gloss finishes. Spots or stains that do not wash off should be primed with a stain killer, such as BIN by Zinsser to prevent possible bleed-through. Fill any holes and cracks with spackle, plaster, wood filler or patching compound, depending on the surface. When the patch is dry, sand smooth and seal if necessary.
TIP- Use a paste especially made for high humidity areas like kitchens and baths. One to try: Premium Paste for The Kitchen & Bath GH-95 by Roman Decorating Products. It prevents curling edges, eliminates seam problems and inhibits mildew growth. Use on un pasted& pre-pasted wallpaper.
Over Existing Wallcoverings
New wallpaper can be hung over existing wallcovering if it is adhering uniformly and is free of dirt, dust and grime.
Gently clean the existing wallpaper with a damp rag. Paint the entire surface with a universal primer. To help conceal any visible seam separations, the primer can be tinted to closely match the background color of the new wallcovering. The pigmentation will hide background colors and patterns that may show through.
NOTE: If the old wallcovering is printed with metallic inks (gold, bronze, etc.) an application of shellac-based primed is required prior to application of a wallcovering primer. The shellac-based primer will seal the inks so that they will not bleed through.
Over Paneling
New wallpaper can be hung over existing paneling. Wipe the surface with mineral spirits (paint thinner) to remove any wax, polish and other contaminates. Fill recessed areas in the paneling with spackling compound, allow to dry, sand smooth and remove all the dust. Prime the entire surface with a universal primer. The primer will work with all types of pastes and wallpapers, and should assure good adhesion of the wallcovering and help hold down the edges. The pigmentation will hide background colors and patterns that may show through. To help conceal any visible seam separations the primer can be tinted to closely match the background color of the new wallcovering.
Pre pasted Wallpaper
Nearly 90% of all wallpaper sold today is pre pasted. Pre pasted wallpaper is manufactured with a dry adhesive on the back of the wallpaper that requires only moistening for installation.
1. To apply, start with a clean, dry sound surface. When applying over painted surfaces and vinyl wallpaper, use Prepz™ One Step Pre-Pasted Wallpaper Prep & Adhesive or The Enhancer™ Paste for Pre pasted. These new adhesives eliminate the need for water trays, special adhesives and activators.
2. Apply a uniform coat of the adhesive to the back of the wallpaper with a roller spreading evenly. One to try: WALWorksAdhesive & Stripper Roller. Make sure the edges of the paper are well coated. Apply adhesive to half the length of a strip of wallpaper, fold it back to itself (paste to paste) and book per manufacturer's instructions.
3. To hang, align the top half of the paper's edge to the plumb line, overlapping at the ceiling by a few inches. Let the other edge hang loose to make positioning easier.
4. After hanging the wallpaper, smooth it out using a smoothing tool to remove air pockets. One to Try: the Zinsser WalWiz. Use a razor knife to trim away excess. Wipe off any paste on the surface with a clean damp, sponge and wipe dry with a soft, clean cloth. Now, you are ready for the next sheet.
TIP- For new drywall, builder's flat and other porous surfaces, be sure to prime before hanging wallpaper. Universal primer prepares the surface for hanging any type of wallpaper and makes it easier to position, improves adhesion, and makes it easier to remove when redecorating.

Creates Sound, Sealed Surfaces - Not all surfaces are sound, sealed and have a uniform color. Bare drywall is notorious for sucking all the moisture out of wallpaper adhesive in a very short period of time causing seams to split. Flat paint - especially builder's flat - does not offer a sound surface for wallpaper and will delaminate from the drywall surface if not primed before wallpapering. Most redecorating projects have a variety of surfaces that need to be sealed - porous, gloss, multicolored and even existing wallpaper. One coat of SHIELDZ Universal seals all surfaces to create a sound foundation for hanging ALL types of wallcovering.

Faster, Easier Installation -wallpaper installation is much faster and easier because of the increased slip and repositioning time. With the increased working time and a uniform surface, seams are easier to match up and mistakes are easier to correct.

Better Appearance and Long-Term Performance - For example SHIELDZ Universal can be tinted to match the background color of the wallpaper, making it ideal to help hide seams or dark wallpaper over light colored surfaces. It prevents seams from pulling away and curling up.

Faster, Easier Removal with No Damage to Walls - When the time comes to remove the wallpaper, it can be stripped from the walls without damaging the surface or tearing the drywall facing paper. The remaining adhesive can be easily removed using a stripper and the new wallpaper can be installed without delay.

TIP - Using a universal primer helps minimize seam splits.

Instructions for Using SureMatch™
1. Remove cover from wall and place on a flat surface facing up.
2. Peel the split side of liner paper from SureMatch cutout.
3. With the exposed adhesive facing down, align the openings in The SureMatch cutout with the openings in the cover plate.
4. Press SureMatch onto cover plate and wrap the overhanging tabs around to the back of the cover plate.
5. In 10-30 seconds the tabs of release liner will begin to come off remove white liner and place in position on wall.
6. Select the appropriate matching wallcovering with approximately 2" of extra wallcovering on all sides.
7. Adjust and position dry wallcovering to the desired match then press wallcovering against cover plate.
8. Remove assembly from wall and trim excess allowing approx. 5/8" to wrap around to the back of the cover plate and cut a 45 degree angle at the corners.
9. Pierce a straight line through screw holes and cutout switch/plug openings using the inner edge as a guide.

NOTE: Double, triple, etc. will require trimming the SureMatch cutout with scissors.

Cutting Tools

A revolutionary advancement in the blade world came in 1956 with the invention of the snap-off blade. Since its introduction by Mr. Y. Okada, who named his company Olfa after two Japanese words that mean, "to break a blade", the world of sharp objects has never been the same. Olfa has become one of the leading cutting tool manufacturers by offering more than 100 different products, all with a lifetime guarantee on handles. Their latest tool, called the ABB UltraMax Blades with 13 cutting edges per blade, is designed using a double honing process that makes it 25 percent sharper than their standard blades. To see a full product line, go to www.olfa.com.

Adhesive should be mixed and thinned according to the manufacturer’s recommendations. The paste must be thin enough so it will move in the trough as the application roller applies the paste. A milkshake like viscosity is ideal.

When using a heavy paste, such as clay based, it may be necessary to paddle mix the paste to help it flow more evenly.

Advance Equipment offers a full line of pasting machines. These are their most popular:

62" Pastingg Machine- Manual, gear driven pasting machine for heavier materials up to 62” wide. Stainless steel tank with two removable and three fixed rollers. Paste roller is hard coat anodized and Teflon coated for ultimate protection.

30" Pastemate Supreme- Table top gear-driven model same design as heavy duty machine. Compact smaller footprint allows unit to be placed on table top. Machine will handle material up to 30” wide. Stainless steel tank holds all adhesives from clay to prepasted activator. Paste roller is hard-coat anodized and Teflon coated for ultimate protection. Lightweight (35lb) unit is also available with optional rolling stand.

56" Pull Box- Economical model pasting machine with simple operation and leak-free design has a patented paste adjustment. Uniform paste distribution can be easily adjusted for more or less paste in center of wallcovering. Applies clay or heavy clear adhesives and has a clean-out door for quick clean up. Attaches easily to any paste table.

30" Qwikpaster - 30” table top pasting machine. Precision turned anodized aluminum paste roller sits in stainless steel tank which holds 1-1/2 gallons of paste and has plastic drain plug for easy clean up.

· Knife guide slot on stainless steel lid for exact cuts.

· Regulating knobs allow fine adjustment of paste application.

· For clear adhesive or prepasted activator ONLY! (will not handle clay)

Seven simple steps to use a Ramco PasteMaster Machine

1 .Fill trough from the backside
2. Load the roll of wallpaper on the roll holder bar and attach the roll stop guides on each side of the roll. Place the roll holder bar on designated brackets.
3. Lift the lid to an upright position. Roll the wallpaper over the application roller, over the scraper bar and under the return roller to the back of the machine.
4. Lower the lid and pull wallpaper back over the lid to the cut-off slot
Set inchmeter (if applicable) in place with the wheel on the return roller. Reset inchmeter to zero.
6. Pull wallpaper to desired length and use the cut-off slot to cut the wallpaper straight.
7. The desired paste thickness is controlled by using the paste adjustment lever located on the side of the machine. To adjust the paste thickness, loosen the brass thumbscrew and move the lever up or down. Raising the lever increases the amount of paste applied. Lowering the lever decreases the amount of paste. There is a wide range of settings between the high and low positions. Most pasting machines have a scraper bar, but some utilize another system to scrape the paste off the paper.

5 Easy Steps To Using a Paste-Well Machine

1-Clamp machine to a table. Place vinyl roll on Material Rod. Feed material;
face down, through the machine and under the Front Panel, keeping one edge flush with a machine side. Slide the Paste Divider flush with the other edge of the material to customize the paste area to the wallcovering width.
2-Pour paste.
3-Turn Front Panel Adjustment Knobs to set the desired paste thickness.
Now you are set up to paste! Pull the material through.
4-Book back to the machine, and cut against the metal edged Cutting Bar.
5-To clean up, scoop up residual paste with a putty knife, or small
scoop. Remove the Front Panel. Cut off and discard portion of pasted vinyl. Using a wet sponge, wipe off residual paste from the machine. That's it. No need for a hose, or a trip to a car wash.
Clean Up
It is recommended that the pasting machine be thoroughly cleaned after each day’s use.
Four easy steps:
1. Place a bucket under the drain hole and remove the drain plug. Run the trough-cleaning tool from each side toward the drain hole.
2. To clean the scraper bar, unscrew the brass knob on the paste adjustment lever. Wash with water to clean. Do not use a harsh object to remove paste from the scraper teeth.
3. To clean the application roller, remove the large gear on the right side of the machine by turning counter-clockwise. Lift right side of roller first, and pull out. The Ramco machine has a form fitting cleaning tool.
4. Clean pasting machine trough and lid with water and a sponge.

Note: Pasting machines vary by make and model. The basic concept of how to use a machine is similar with most machines. When purchasing a pasting machine for commercial and residential jobs that require medium to heavy pastes, there are a few features to look for. The machine should be gear driven for the heavier adhesives. The gears should be on the outside of the trough area for clean and effective use. Manufacturer provided cleaning tools make for quick, easy clean up.

A) The wall or door must be clean, dry, primed and sealed prior to installation. DO NOT HANG ON A GLOSS FINISHED DOOR OR WALL.

B) Materials- CONTAINER-to mix glue ROLLER- to spread the glue SCISSORS and KNIFE-to trim the edges, if necessary WALLPAPER BRUSH.

C) Adhesive should be mixed as follows:

#of panels size amount of water

8 panel 12' 8-3/4" x 9' 2.25 quarts

4 panel 6' 4" x 9' 1.25 quarts

4 panel (panoramic) 12' 8 3/4 " x 4" 6" 1.25 quarts

2 panel 33" x 86" 1 pint

Slowly pour the adhesive into warm water, stirring constantly, and allow to thicken for 20 minutes before use. Then fir the design to your wall or door. The gross dimensions of the murals are listed above in the unglued state. These dimensions may increase slightly once the adhesive has been applied and will retain these dimensions once it has dried.

D) To ensure the design is centered, make a guide line by drawing a horizontal line equidistant from floor and ceiling across the wall or door.

E) Apply adhesive to the back of section 1 (bottom left-hand piece) of the mural. Avoid getting any paste on the face of the mural. If you get glue on the face of the mural, wipe gently with a wet sponge before the glue dries. DO NOT RUB- this may damage the mural.

When pasting DO NOT FOLD the wet sections as with ordinary wallpaper. The section will stick together and become damaged when separating. Handle each section carefully in order not to damage the mural when wet.

Mount the section carefully, drawing the wallpaper brush form the center outwards. Smooth as necessary. Small air bubbles should disappear once the mural has dried.

F) Section 2 should now be placed to the right of section 1. Continue installing the mural sections in positions as indicated.

8 panel 4 panel 2 panel 4 panel panoramic

5 6 7 8 3 4 2 1 2 3 4

1 2 3 4 1 2 1

As mentioned in "C" above, the sections may expand horizontally to a greater or lesser extent once that adhesive has been applied. Therefore, it may be necessary to overlap the horizontal seam 1/4 inch and the vertical seam up to 1/8 inch to achieve the best pattern match.

G) Make sure all seams are brushed or rolled completely.

SOLUTION:
If the paper is already installed, allow the paper to dry completely (24 hours). Using clean white towels and club soda, gently wash down the face of the paper, wiping consistently down the paper in long vertical strokes. Softly wipe dry with the same long vertical strokes . It may take several attempts before the haze disappears.

PROBLEM: Seams rolling up on 54" commerical goods

SOLUTION:
Sometime different types of materials require other techniques for a good installation. In cases where seams pop-up as the material dries, try pasting the wall with Heavy Duty CLAY and dry hang.
Careful though, clay is tough to clean up so take precaution not to get it on the face of the goods. Make sure the wall is primed also with a "wallcovering primer" designed to promote adhesion.

PROBLEM: Paper won't stick (curling up) around top of backsplashes where silicone caulk has been applied.

SOLUTION:
Wallpaper will not stick to pure silicone caulking. You must remove it in order to install wallcovering or paint. Cut out any caulking with a razor knife before hanging the paper. Re-caulk with a proper latex silconized caulk (not pure silicone) after the install and your finished job will look nice.

PROBLEM: Painted over wallpaper paste and didn't prime
Can anyone help with a solution?. My daughter stripped her wallpaper and after washing the wall well, painted the wall with a decorative color latex paint . I told her to stain kill the wall first with a primer. She didn't!!!
What if she stain killed the wall now and repainted it? I'm concerned the paste residue may still crack through. My thought now is to just wait and see what happens. If any cracking happens then sand prime and repaint??

SOLUTION:
Sand the spots where the paste shows and is cracking, hard with 100 grit sandpaper. You may have to do the entire wall surface. Then prime the entire wall surface with a quick dry oil primer or you can use Guardz or DT. Then paint.

PROBLEM: Paste residue heavy, cracked and shattered after wallpaper removed.
Sometime removal can go well with no sheetrock damage but leave a heavy crackled, rough underlying adhesive residue. How can I prepare the surface for new wallpaper?

SOLUTION:
Scrap off all the loose and shattered adhesive. Seal the surface with a liquid drywall PRO 999 and skim out rough areas with joint compound. Sand and prime with Shieldz.

PROBLEM: Wallcovering bubbled after the installation

SOLUTION:
Moisten the bubbled area with a sponge. Let soften (3-5 minutes).
Cut through the wallcovering using a straight edge VERY sharp blade.
Inject appropriate adhesive for type of wallcovering as far back as it will go with syringe.
Use WalWiz to smooth out adhesive pulling back into material and then pushing out. Seal and set seam with Walwiz.
Gently wipe away excess paste from face of wallcovering.

Adhesive: A substance that causes one thing to adhere to another; most wallpaper adhesives are cellulose-, clay- or starch-based.

Adhesive Removers: Solutions that are applied to walls to aid in the removal of old wallpaper glue and adhesive residue left on the wall surface after wallpaper removal.

Allowance: The extra amount of wallpaper allowed at the top, bottom and/or sides of a strip that is trimmed off after the strip is placed on the wall.

Booking: A term used to describe how wallpaper is folded after it is either pasted or pulled through a water tray. Generally the top of the wallpaper is LOOSELY folded (not creased) shorter on the top and longer on the bottom end and allowed to book (relax) per manufacturers recommendation (generally 5 to 10 minutes.)

Bolt: A double-roll of wallpaper (50-56 square feet) is called a bolt. A bolt of border is 15' long.

Border: A band of wallpaper used for decorative purposes, usually at ceiling height or at a chair-rail height (32" from top of baseboard) or around windows and doors.

Butt Joint/Butted Seams: A joint at which edges of wallpaper meet but do not overlap.

Clay Adhesive: Clay pastes are best suited for hanging heavy commercial vinyl and "dry" hanging. A clay paste is one of the strongest wallcovering adhesives made. Clay is generally recommended when hanging over paneling or cinderblock walls and many liner papers spec a clay based adhesive to install the liner for a strong bond.

Color Run: The amount of rollage of a particular design produced of a single color combination in a single production run of the design . Subsequent runs of the same design and color may be slightly different. (This is why it is important for purchasers to retain the run number in case additional rollage is needed). Also referred to a Dye Lot.

Colorway: The combination of colors in which a design is printed. Any given design is usually made in from two to six colorings.

Design: The imprint on the wallpaper such as florals, solids, stripes, geometrics, etc.

Double Cut Seam: Type of seam used in situations where it is necessary to overlap two strips of wallcovering and yet avoid a raised ridge. One example would be when a border is being installed and a second border is needs to be joined to complete the run on the wall. The pattern would be matched laying one border over the other and a cut would be made through both layers. Once the cut is made, the overlap (top cut-off section) and underlap (bottom cut-off section) is removed, the edges smoothed and joined together, leaving a tightly butted seam.

Double Roll: A bolt of wallpaper, generally containing 50 to 56 square feet or about 32 linear feet.

Drop Match: A drop match simply means your pattern does not match straight across the wallpaper but instead drops a certain distance on the opposite side of the paper. Once you have decided on pattern placement on your wall, every other piece will generally be the same.

Dry Scraping: A method of wallpaper removal where one scrapes through the wallpaper to expose bare or painted walls: can go through several layers of old wallpaper; for use on plaster walls only.

Dye Lot Number: A set of numbers and /or letters given to a particular batch of wallpaper rolls printed at the same time; each time a new ink or different batch is printed, the dye lot number (sometimes called the color run number) will change; it is important to ensure that all rolls have the same dye lot number before beginning a job, sometimes referred to as a run number.

Embossed Wallpaper: The application of pressure and heat to create a permanent texture; because of an additional finishing process needed for the emboss, it is slightly more expensive; two types are Random and In-Register.

Engineering the Room: Planning where your seams will fall to eliminate small strips next to doors, windows, cabinet, etc. and determining where your pattern should be placed for beautiful finished results is a technique called Engineering the Room. With a pencil mark off your seam placement to eliminate any problem areas and adjust your starting point. Take the pattern (size, design type, repeat) of the wallpaper into consideration when deciding pattern placement at your ceiling and floor.

Expanded Vinyl Wallpaper: A heavy textured vinyl wallpaper, great for use over damaged walls and rough surfaces, sometimes referred to as blown vinyl, usually paintable

Fabric-Backed Solid Vinyl Wallpaper: Highly durable wallpaper with a woven or non-woven fabric ground (mesh-like textile backing) and a solid vinyl coating; used almost exclusively for commercial and institutional applications.

Gravure Printing: A high-speed, cost-effective and the most common wallpaper printing process; utilized copper cylinders, with one color per cylinder, etched with the pattern design; can achieve fine detail and a wide range of tones in as many as 12 colors.

Ground: Raw stock onto which a coat of pigment has been applied before the top colors are put on in wallcovering manufacturing.

In-Register: A type of embossed wallpaper where the emboss is synchronized with the pattern in the wallpaper; has a silk-like, shiny appearance, fairly common; also called Light Reflective.

Level: A tool which has liquid in a small glass cylinder that moves to indicate when it is positioned perfectly vertical. A 2 to 4 foot carpenter's level is useful in drawing a "level line" to start the first strip of wallpaper on a wall. Levels are used for determining the straightness of seams and can be used to pencil in horizontal lines to lay borders along.

Lining Paper: Blank wallpaper stock that can be applied to provide a smooth surface and minimize the possibility of mildew and staining. It is hung horizontally (sometimes called railroaded) to ensure that its seams and the wallpaper's seam do not fall on the same vertical line; should be left to dry on the wall for at least 36 hours before wallpaper is hung; super-heavyweight strippable lining paper can be used directly over properly primed and prepared paneling, tile and cement block. Sometimes referred to as blankstock, some lining papers require priming over its surface before painting or wallpapering over them, some liners are now pre-pasted and do not require priming the surface.

Matching: Hanging strips of wallcovering so that the design will be in the correct relation to the preceding strips. The types of matches are "random", "straight", "drop", and "reverse".

Pattern Repeat: The distance up and down before the printed pattern exactly repeats/duplicates itself.

Peelable: A wallcovering that can be dry-peeled from the wall leaving only substrate (sometimes called paper backing) on the wall, which can then be used as a liner under new wallcoverings. Peelable wallcoverings are usually paper-backed vinyl in which a layer of solid vinyl is adhered to an inexpensive backing.

Pigmented Primer/Sealer: A colored primer/sealer which reduces the risk of show-through with lightweight wallpaper or wallpaper with little ink. Generally show through is caused by sheetrock seams or patterns on old wallpaper. Typically primer/sealers are pigmented white and can be tinted to a pastel color if desired.

Plumb Line: A vertical guideline (sometimes called a level line) necessary when hanging wallpaper; a length of string is usually coated with chalk to which a weight is attached; when the string is snapped, the chalk leaves a straight line on the wall. A level can also be used to achieve the same results by tracing with a pencil on the correctly positioned level.

Pre-pasted Wallpaper: Wallpaper that has been pre-coated with an adhesive. The dry adhesive is activated by pulling the wallpaper through a tray of water.

Primer/Sealer: A base coating designed for use under wallpaper to seal porous surfaces prior to hanging; helps the wallpaper adhere by blocking the wall's capacity to absorb moisture from the paste; makes hanging and removing easier. It is always recommended to prime before hanging wallpaper and to use an acrylic primer/sealer formulated especially for priming for wallpapers.

Railroaded - A method of installing wallcovering horizontally rather than vertically. Generally used on lining papers.

Random Embossed Wallpaper: Texture is created at random all over the embossed wallpaper.

Random Match: A pattern design where the pattern matches no matter how the adjoining strips are positioned; textures and vertical stripes are common examples.

Razor Knife: Useful for trimming wallpaper at ceilings, baseboards, around cabinets, etc. and for cutting through wallpaper layers such as when double-cutting. Change blades often for neat, clean trims.

Relax(ing): - A term used to describe the expanding process of wallpaper after water or adhesive has been applied. Some wallpapers expand 1/2" to 1" during the 5 to 10 minutes following exposure to moisture.

Reverse Match: A method of installing wallcoverings where the top is reversed on each piece (top up, then top down, then top up, then top down). Generally this method is used on commercial 54" goods.

Scoring: Process of perforating or cutting thin lines into old wallpaper so that wallpaper removal solutions can better penetrate the paper.

Scrubbable: Any wallcovering that can be safely washed with a sponge and detergent while still on the wall. Perfect for high traffic areas such as kitchens and baths. Typically scrubbables are solid vinyls and wallpapers will be labeled as scrubbable.

Sizing: A solution applied to the wall to add slip for ease of smoothing and working the paper. Newer solutions such as activators and wall primers have outdated the use of sizing.

Solid Vinyl Wallpaper: Wallpaper in which a vinyl film coating is added to the ground before the pattern is printed; durable, easy to clean, scrubbable and moisture- and stain-resistant; two types are Paper-Backed and Fabric-Backed.

Scraper: A tool used to scrape away old wallpaper, glue and adhesives.

Spackling Compound: A white pre-mixed compound or powder to which water is added for use in mending cracks in plaster, holes in sheetrock walls, skimming old wallpaper seams, should be sanded smooth and flat after drying.

Spray Removal: A method of wallpaper removal where a garden-type sprayer applies wallpaper removal solutions to walls and then paper is removed with a wall scraper.

Steam Removal: A method of wallpaper removal where a commercially-available steamer is used.

Straight Edge: A tool that is helpful in conjunction with a razor knife for mitering straight joints (such as double-cutting through two layers of wallpaper) and for use as a guide in trimming selvages on un-trimmed wallpaper.

Straight Match: A pattern design where the pattern match flows directly across the strips: when hung, every strip will be the same at the ceiling line and the pattern on all strips will be the same distance from the ceiling.

Strippable: Wallpaper that can be dry stripped from the wall leaving very little paste or residue and no damage to the wall surface.

Stripper: A gel or liquid that is applied to walls to facilitate the removal of old wallpaper.

Substrate: The backing of a wallcovering. it becomes laminated to the design layer.

Surface Printing: similar to Gravure printing, but uses aluminum magnesium alloy cylinders; amount of ink laid is much thicker and has a raised printing surface; less durable than gravure; used mostly on higher-end brands and more expensive.

Usable Yield: The amount of actual wallpaper per double roll that can be hung after taking into consideration the waste in the repeat of the pattern.

Vinyl Coated Paper: Paper wallpaper that has a thin layer of acrylic or vinyl applied over the paper; pattern is printed on that. Generally washable but not scrubbable. Best used in foyers, formal areas, bedrooms, powder rooms.

Vinyl to Vinyl Adhesive: A special adhesive used to make sure two wallpaper stick together; recommended when hanging borders or joining wallpaper a corners.

Wall Preparation: The preliminary work on walls to prepare them for wallcovering application, i.e. patching, sanding, priming.

Washable: A wallcovering that can be cleaned with a sponge, soft towel, mild soap and water.

Water Tray: A specially shaped trough, usually made of plastic, design to hold water for wetting pre-pasted wallpaper before hanging.

Work Table: A work surface that facilitates the cutting and gluing of wallpaper. Makeshift tables can be fashioned with saw-horses and plywood or professional grade tables are available through wallpaper and paint dealers.